Coastal Processes

Oceanography · Part 7

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Table of Contents

  1. 1.Wave Refraction: Snell's Law
  2. 2.Wave Breaking
  3. 3.Radiation Stress and Longshore Current
  4. 4.Sediment Transport and Beach Morphodynamics
  5. 5.Python: Wave Refraction, Longshore Current & Sediment Transport
  6. 6.Beach Morphodynamics and Equilibrium Profiles
  7. 7.Coastal Engineering Structures
  8. 8.Fortran: 1D Cross-Shore Wave Propagation (Mild Slope Equation)
  9. 9.Wave Setup/Setdown
  10. 10.Rip Currents

Key Equations

$$\frac{\sin\alpha_1}{c_1} = \frac{\sin\alpha_2}{c_2} = \text{const along a ray}$$
$$\gamma_b = \frac{H_b}{h_b} \approx 0.78$$
$$S_{xx} = E\left(\frac{c_g}{c}\left(1 + \cos^2\alpha\right) - \frac{1}{2}\right), \quad S_{xy} = \frac{E c_g}{c}\sin\alpha\cos\alpha$$
$$\tau^* = \frac{\tau_b}{(\rho_s - \rho)gd}$$

Equations are rendered with MathJax in the PDF with professional LaTeX typesetting.

Course Context

This PDF is part of the Oceanography course on CoursesHub.World. Explore the science of the seas from physical and chemical properties to marine biology and climate interactions. Covers ocean circulation, waves and tides, marine ecosystems, seafloor geology, climat...

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