Wave Dynamics

Oceanography · Part 7

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Table of Contents

  1. 1.Linear (Airy) Wave Theory
  2. 2.Dispersion Relation
  3. 3.Wave Energy and Energy Flux
  4. 4.Stokes Drift
  5. 5.Wave Spectra
  6. 6.Wave Generation by Wind
  7. 7.Python: Dispersion, Spectra & Stokes Drift
  8. 8.Fortran: Dispersion Solver & Wave Spectrum
  9. 9.Nonlinear Wave Effects
  10. 10.Operational Wave Forecasting

Key Equations

$$\eta(x,t) = \frac{H}{2}\cos(kx - \omega t)$$
$$c = \frac{\omega}{k} = \sqrt{\frac{g}{k}\tanh(kh)}, \quad c_g = \frac{\partial \omega}{\partial k} = \frac{c}{2}\left(1 + \frac{2kh}{\sinh 2kh}\right)$$
$$u_S(z) = \frac{\omega k H^2}{8} \frac{\cosh 2k(z+h)}{\sinh^2(kh)}$$
$$H_s = H_{m0} = 4\sqrt{m_0}, \quad m_n = \int_0^\infty f^n S(f)\,df$$

Equations are rendered with MathJax in the PDF with professional LaTeX typesetting.

Course Context

This PDF is part of the Oceanography course on CoursesHub.World. Explore the science of the seas from physical and chemical properties to marine biology and climate interactions. Covers ocean circulation, waves and tides, marine ecosystems, seafloor geology, climat...

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