2.4 Pressure & Acoustics
The Deep Pressure World and Underwater Sound
Pressure in the ocean increases at approximately 1 atmosphere (101,325 Pa) per 10 meters of depth. At the bottom of the Mariana Trench, pressure exceeds 1,100 atmospheres -- sufficient to compress steel and make most electronic instruments fail. This extreme pressure environment shapes marine life, ocean chemistry, and the design of every instrument deployed in the deep sea.
Sound propagates through seawater roughly 4.4 times faster than through air, and electromagnetic radiation (light, radio) is rapidly attenuated in water. Consequently, acoustics is the primary tool for remote sensing in the ocean -- used for bathymetric mapping, current measurement, communication, submarine detection, marine mammal studies, and even measuring ocean temperature on basin scales.
Hydrostatic Pressure
The hydrostatic equation relates pressure to depth in a fluid at rest. For an incompressible fluid with constant density, the relationship is linear:
$$p(z) = p_0 + \rho g z = p_0 + \int_0^z \rho(z') g \, dz'$$
where $p_0 \approx 101{,}325$ Pa is atmospheric pressure, $\rho \approx 1025$ kg/mยณ, and $g \approx 9.81$ m/sยฒ
In practice, seawater is slightly compressible, so density increases with depth. The compressibility$\kappa = -(1/V)(dV/dp)$ of seawater is approximately $4.5 \times 10^{-10}$ Paโยน, meaning the density at 10,000 m is about 4.5% higher than at the surface. Oceanographers commonly use the decibar (dbar) as the pressure unit, where 1 dbar $\approx$ 1 m depth numerically.
Pressure at Notable Depths
In-Situ vs. Potential Temperature
Adiabatic compression heats water as it sinks. The adiabatic lapse rate $\Gamma$ quantifies this temperature change per unit pressure:
$$\Gamma = \frac{\alpha T}{\rho c_p} \approx 0.1\text{--}0.2 \text{ ยฐC/km}$$
At 4000 m, in-situ T is ~0.4--0.6 degrees C higher than potential temperature $\theta$. At 10,000 m the difference approaches 1.5 degrees C. Potential temperature must be used when comparing water masses from different depths.
Derivation: Hydrostatic Pressure Equation
Step 1: Force balance on a fluid element
Consider a thin horizontal slab of fluid at depth z with thickness dz and cross-sectional area A. The slab is in static equilibrium, so the net upward pressure force must balance the gravitational force (weight).
$$p(z + dz) \cdot A - p(z) \cdot A = \rho \, g \, A \, dz$$
Step 2: Differential form
Dividing both sides by A and taking the limit as dz approaches zero, we obtain the fundamental hydrostatic differential equation. The pressure gradient is proportional to the local fluid density and gravitational acceleration.
$$\frac{dp}{dz} = \rho(z) \, g$$
Step 3: Integration for constant density
If the fluid is incompressible (constant density $\rho$), we integrate directly from the surface (z = 0, where $p = p_0$) to depth z:
$$\int_{p_0}^{p} dp' = \int_0^z \rho \, g \, dz' \quad \Longrightarrow \quad p(z) = p_0 + \rho g z$$
Step 4: Variable-density generalization
In the real ocean, density varies with depth due to temperature, salinity, and compressibility. The integral form accounts for this by keeping $\rho(z')$ inside the integrand:
$$p(z) = p_0 + \int_0^z \rho(z') \, g \, dz'$$
Step 5: Numerical estimate
Using $\rho = 1025$ kg/m$^3$ and $g = 9.81$ m/s$^2$, the pressure increase per meter of depth is:
$$\frac{dp}{dz} = 1025 \times 9.81 = 10{,}055 \text{ Pa/m} \approx 1 \text{ dbar/m} \approx 0.1 \text{ atm/m}$$
This confirms the convenient rule: pressure in decibars is approximately equal to depth in meters.
Speed of Sound in Seawater
The speed of sound in seawater depends on temperature, salinity, and pressure (depth). Several empirical equations have been developed. The Mackenzie (1981) equation is widely used:
$$c = 1448.96 + 4.591T - 5.304 \times 10^{-2}T^2 + 2.374 \times 10^{-4}T^3$$
$$+ 1.340(S - 35) + 1.630 \times 10^{-2}D + 1.675 \times 10^{-7}D^2$$
$$- 1.025 \times 10^{-2}T(S - 35) - 7.139 \times 10^{-13}TD^3$$
where T is temperature (degrees C), S is salinity (PSU), and D is depth (m). c is in m/s.
Temperature Effect
Dominant near the surface. Sound speed increases ~4.6 m/s per degree C (at T=10 degrees C). Hot water transmits sound faster. This causes sound to refract away from warm water toward cold water.
Salinity Effect
Relatively minor: ~1.3 m/s per PSU increase. Saltier water transmits sound slightly faster. Important near river plumes and ice melt regions where salinity varies significantly.
Pressure (Depth) Effect
Increases ~1.6 m/s per 100 m depth. Dominates in the deep ocean where T and S are nearly uniform. This pressure effect is why sound speed increases below the sound speed minimum.
Derivation: Sound Speed from Bulk Modulus (Newton-Laplace Equation)
Step 1: Definition of bulk modulus
The adiabatic bulk modulus $K_s$ measures a fluid's resistance to compression. It is defined as the ratio of an infinitesimal pressure increase to the resulting fractional decrease in volume (at constant entropy):
$$K_s = -V \frac{\partial p}{\partial V}\bigg|_s = \rho \frac{\partial p}{\partial \rho}\bigg|_s$$
Step 2: 1D wave equation in a fluid
Combining the linearized Euler equation (momentum conservation) and the continuity equation for small perturbations of pressure $p'$ and velocity $u'$ about a rest state:
$$\rho_0 \frac{\partial u'}{\partial t} = -\frac{\partial p'}{\partial x}, \qquad \frac{\partial p'}{\partial t} = -K_s \frac{\partial u'}{\partial x}$$
Step 3: Eliminate velocity to get the wave equation
Differentiate the first equation with respect to x and the second with respect to t, then combine to eliminate $u'$. This yields the classical wave equation for pressure perturbations:
$$\frac{\partial^2 p'}{\partial t^2} = \frac{K_s}{\rho_0} \frac{\partial^2 p'}{\partial x^2}$$
Step 4: Identify the wave speed
The standard wave equation has the form $\partial^2 p'/\partial t^2 = c^2 \, \partial^2 p'/\partial x^2$. By comparison, the phase speed of sound is:
$$c = \sqrt{\frac{K_s}{\rho}}$$
This is the Newton-Laplace equation. Newton originally derived $c = \sqrt{K_T/\rho}$ using the isothermal bulk modulus, which underestimated the speed of sound in air by about 16%. Laplace corrected this by recognizing that sound propagation is adiabatic (too rapid for heat exchange), requiring the adiabatic modulus $K_s = \gamma K_T$.
Step 5: Application to seawater
For seawater at the surface, $K_s \approx 2.34 \times 10^9$ Pa and $\rho \approx 1025$ kg/m$^3$:
$$c = \sqrt{\frac{2.34 \times 10^9}{1025}} \approx 1511 \text{ m/s}$$
Since both $K_s$ and $\rho$ depend on temperature, salinity, and pressure, the sound speed inherits these dependencies. The empirical Mackenzie equation captures these effects through polynomial fits to laboratory measurements.
The SOFAR Channel
The Sound Fixing and Ranging (SOFAR) channel is a horizontal layer in the ocean where the speed of sound reaches a minimum, typically at 600 -- 1200 m depth (shallower at high latitudes, deeper in the tropics). Above this minimum, sound speed decreases with depth because temperature dominates. Below the minimum, sound speed increases because the pressure effect dominates.
$$\frac{\partial c}{\partial z} = \frac{\partial c}{\partial T}\frac{\partial T}{\partial z} + \frac{\partial c}{\partial S}\frac{\partial S}{\partial z} + \frac{\partial c}{\partial p}\frac{\partial p}{\partial z} = 0 \quad \text{at SOFAR axis}$$
Sound waves traveling near the SOFAR axis are continuously refracted back toward the minimum. By Snell's law ($\cos\theta / c = \text{constant}$), rays bend toward the region of lower sound speed. This trapping effect creates a waveguide that allows low-frequency sound to travel thousands of kilometers with minimal geometric spreading loss:
$$\text{Snell's Law: } \frac{\cos\theta_1}{c_1} = \frac{\cos\theta_2}{c_2}$$
Acoustic Thermometry
Sound travel time across ocean basins depends on the path-integrated sound speed, which in turn depends on temperature. By measuring travel times with millisecond precision, basin-averaged temperature changes of ~0.01 degrees C can be detected. The ATOC (Acoustic Thermometry of Ocean Climate) project demonstrated this for North Pacific monitoring.
Marine Mammal Communication
Blue and fin whales produce low-frequency calls (15 -- 25 Hz) that can propagate through the SOFAR channel over distances exceeding 3,000 km. These infrasonic signals may be used for long-range communication and mate finding across entire ocean basins.
Derivation: SOFAR Channel Trapping from Snell's Law Refraction
Step 1: Snell's law for a continuously stratified medium
In a horizontally stratified ocean where the sound speed $c(z)$ varies only with depth, Snell's law requires that a conserved quantity (the ray parameter p) remains constant along each ray path. Here $\theta$ is the angle measured from horizontal:
$$p = \frac{\cos\theta(z)}{c(z)} = \frac{\cos\theta_0}{c_0} = \text{constant}$$
Step 2: Ray turning condition
A ray turns (reverses vertical direction) when $\theta = 0ยฐ$ (horizontal propagation), i.e., when $\cos\theta = 1$. This occurs at a turning depth $z_t$ where:
$$\frac{1}{c(z_t)} = \frac{\cos\theta_0}{c_0} \quad \Longrightarrow \quad c(z_t) = \frac{c_0}{\cos\theta_0}$$
Since $\cos\theta_0 < 1$ for any non-horizontal launch, the turning depth occurs where $c(z_t) > c_0$. The ray bends toward regions of lower sound speed.
Step 3: Sound speed profile with a minimum
In the typical ocean, the sound speed profile has a minimum at the SOFAR axis depth $z_{\text{SOFAR}}$. Above, temperature decrease with depth causes c to decrease. Below, pressure increase causes c to increase:
$$c(z) > c_{\min} \quad \text{for all } z \neq z_{\text{SOFAR}}$$
Step 4: Trapping condition
A ray launched near the SOFAR axis at a small angle $\theta_0$ from horizontal has a turning sound speed $c_t = c_0/\cos\theta_0$ only slightly above $c_{\min}$. Because c increases both above and below the axis, the ray encounters its turning sound speed on both sides and oscillates sinusoidally about the axis:
$$c_{\min} < c_0 / \cos\theta_0 < c_{\text{surface}}, \; c_{\text{bottom}} \quad \Longrightarrow \quad \text{ray is trapped}$$
Step 5: Maximum trapping angle
A ray remains trapped as long as its turning sound speed does not exceed the sound speed at the surface or bottom. The maximum trapping angle $\theta_{\max}$ is determined by the lesser of $c_{\text{surface}}$ and $c_{\text{bottom}}$:
$$\cos\theta_{\max} = \frac{c_{\min}}{\min(c_{\text{surface}}, c_{\text{bottom}})}$$
Rays launched at angles steeper than $\theta_{\max}$ escape the channel and interact with the surface or bottom, suffering additional losses. The SOFAR channel thus acts as a natural acoustic waveguide for rays within this angular window.
Step 6: Cylindrical spreading in the channel
Trapped rays spread only horizontally (in 2D), not vertically. Energy that would spread spherically ($\propto 1/r^2$) in an unbounded medium instead spreads cylindrically ($\propto 1/r$). The transmission loss becomes:
$$TL_{\text{SOFAR}} = 10\log_{10}(r) + \alpha r \quad \text{(dB)}$$
compared to $20\log_{10}(r)$ for spherical spreading. This 10 dB-per-decade advantage, combined with low absorption at low frequencies, allows SOFAR-channel sounds to propagate thousands of kilometers.
Sound Absorption and Transmission Loss
As sound propagates through seawater, it loses energy through geometric spreading and absorption. The total transmission loss (TL) for spherical spreading with absorption is:
$$TL = 20\log_{10}(r) + \alpha \cdot r \quad \text{(dB)}$$
where $r$ is range (m) and $\alpha$ is the absorption coefficient (dB/km)
The absorption coefficient $\alpha$ depends strongly on frequency. At low frequencies (<1 kHz), absorption is very small, allowing long-range propagation. At high frequencies (>100 kHz), absorption limits range to tens of meters. The Francois-Garrison (1982) model gives:
$$\alpha(f) = \frac{A_1 f_1 f^2}{f^2 + f_1^2} + \frac{A_2 f_2 f^2}{f^2 + f_2^2} + A_3 f^2 \quad \text{(dB/km)}$$
Terms represent boric acid relaxation ($f_1 \approx 1$ kHz), MgSO&sub4; relaxation ($f_2 \approx 50$ kHz), and pure water viscosity
Active Sonar
Emits a pulse (ping) and listens for echoes. Echo sounder (bathymetry): typically 12 kHz for deep water, 200 kHz for shallow. Sidescan sonar creates seafloor imagery. Fish-finding sonar operates at 38--200 kHz. Military active sonar uses various frequencies depending on desired range and resolution.
Passive Sonar
Listens only -- no sound emission. Detects noise from ships (broadband), submarines (narrow-band tonals), marine mammals (whale calls), seismic events, and hydrothermal vents. Passive acoustic monitoring (PAM) arrays are increasingly used for biodiversity surveys and marine protected area management.
Derivation: Transmission Loss (Spherical Spreading + Absorption)
Step 1: Spherical spreading (geometric loss)
A point source in a homogeneous unbounded medium radiates energy uniformly in all directions. At range r, the total power P passes through a sphere of area $4\pi r^2$. The intensity (power per unit area) is:
$$I(r) = \frac{P}{4\pi r^2}$$
Step 2: Definition of transmission loss in decibels
Transmission loss (TL) is defined as the ratio of intensity at range r to the intensity at a reference distance of 1 m, expressed in decibels:
$$TL = 10 \log_{10}\!\left(\frac{I(1\text{ m})}{I(r)}\right) = 10\log_{10}\!\left(\frac{r^2}{1^2}\right) = 20\log_{10}(r)$$
Step 3: Absorption as exponential decay
In addition to geometric spreading, the medium absorbs acoustic energy. The intensity decays exponentially with distance due to viscous dissipation and chemical relaxation processes:
$$I(r) = I_0 \, e^{-2\beta r} \quad \text{where } \beta \text{ is the amplitude attenuation coefficient (Np/m)}$$
Step 4: Conversion to decibels per unit distance
Converting the exponential decay to decibel notation using $10\log_{10}(e^{-2\beta r}) = -20\beta r \log_{10}(e) = -8.686 \beta r$, we define the absorption coefficient in dB/km as $\alpha = 8686 \beta$ (with r in km):
$$TL_{\text{absorption}} = \alpha \cdot r \quad \text{(dB, with } r \text{ in km and } \alpha \text{ in dB/km)}$$
Step 5: Combined transmission loss
Since geometric spreading and absorption are independent loss mechanisms, their decibel contributions add linearly. Converting r to meters for the spreading term and km for the absorption term (or using consistent units):
$$TL = 20\log_{10}(r) + \alpha \cdot r \quad \text{(dB)}$$
Step 6: Frequency dependence of absorption
The absorption coefficient $\alpha(f)$ has contributions from chemical relaxation processes (boric acid at ~1 kHz, magnesium sulfate at ~50 kHz) and pure-water viscosity (dominant above 100 kHz). Each relaxation process contributes a term of the form:
$$\alpha_i(f) = \frac{A_i f_i f^2}{f^2 + f_i^2}$$
This is a Debye relaxation form: absorption is proportional to $f^2$ below the relaxation frequency $f_i$ and approaches a constant $A_i f_i$ above it. The total absorption is the sum of all contributions, giving the Francois-Garrison equation.
Acoustic Doppler and Ray Tracing
ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler)
Measures ocean current velocity profiles using the Doppler shift of sound scattered by suspended particles. The frequency shift $\Delta f = 2f_0 v \cos\theta / c$ gives the radial velocity component. Modern ADCPs use 3 or 4 beams at different angles to resolve full 3D velocity profiles. Typical accuracy: 1 cm/s with 1-minute averaging. Frequencies: 75 kHz (deep, 600 m range) to 1200 kHz (shallow, 30 m range).
Ray Tracing in Stratified Ocean
Acoustic ray paths in a depth-varying sound speed profile are governed by Snell's law applied continuously. For a horizontally stratified ocean:
$$\frac{\cos\theta(z)}{c(z)} = \frac{\cos\theta_0}{c_0} = \text{const}$$
Rays bend toward lower sound speed regions. Steep-angle rays reach greater depths; shallow-angle rays are trapped in the SOFAR channel.
Python: Sound Speed Profile and Ray Tracing
This Python code computes the sound speed profile, identifies the SOFAR channel axis, and performs simple acoustic ray tracing in a stratified ocean:
Python: Sound Speed Profile and Ray Tracing
PythonInteractive Python simulation
Click Run to execute the Python code
Code will be executed with Python 3 on the server
Fortran: Acoustic Ray Tracing in Layered Ocean
This Fortran program implements acoustic ray tracing through a layered ocean using Snell's law. It traces rays from a source at a specified depth and computes the path through layers of varying sound speed:
Fortran: Acoustic Ray Tracing in Layered Ocean
FortranInteractive Fortran simulation
Click Run to execute the Fortran code
Code will be compiled with gfortran and executed on the server