Coastal Geology

Oceanography · Part 5

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Table of Contents

  1. 1.Beach Morphology
  2. 2.Sediment Transport
  3. 3.Bruun Rule for Beach Erosion
  4. 4.Coastal Classification & Landforms
  5. 5.Python: Bruun Rule, Longshore Transport & Estuary Salinity
  6. 6.Fortran: 1D Morphodynamic Model for Beach Profile Evolution
  7. 7.Wave Refraction & Longshore Currents
  8. 8.Coastal Classification Systems
  9. 9.Bedload Transport
  10. 10.Suspended Load

Key Equations

$$h(x) = A\,x^{2/3}$$
$$Q_l = K\,\frac{\rho g}{16(\rho_s - \rho)(1-p)}\,H_b^{5/2}\,\sin(2\alpha_b)$$
$$L \propto \frac{K_H \cdot A}{Q_r}$$
$$\frac{\sin\alpha_1}{c_1} = \frac{\sin\alpha_2}{c_2}$$

Equations are rendered with MathJax in the PDF with professional LaTeX typesetting.

Course Context

This PDF is part of the Oceanography course on CoursesHub.World. Explore the science of the seas from physical and chemical properties to marine biology and climate interactions. Covers ocean circulation, waves and tides, marine ecosystems, seafloor geology, climat...

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